A'Pieu Lip Oil Versus EYENLIP BEAUTY Luster Lip Sleeping Mask

A'Pieu Lip Oil Versus EYENLIP BEAUTY Luster Lip Sleeping Mask

This hydrating lip mask is formulated around Petrolatum and Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil to hydrate lips and strengthen the lip barrier.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Polybutene

Diisostearyl Malate

Hydrogenated Polyisobutene

Tridecyl Trimellitate

Silica Silylate

Silica Dimethyl Silylate

Parfum

Dehydroacetic Acid

Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate

CI 19140

CI 15985

Tocopheryl Acetate

Milk Protein Extract

Honey Extract

1,2-Hexanediol

Phenoxyethanol

Ethylhexylglycerin

Polybutene, Diisostearyl Malate, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Tridecyl Trimellitate, Silica Silylate, Silica Dimethyl Silylate, Parfum, Dehydroacetic Acid, Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate, CI 19140, CI 15985, Tocopheryl Acetate, Milk Protein Extract, Honey Extract, 1,2-Hexanediol, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin

Petrolatum

Triethylhexanoin

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Microcrystalline Wax

Benzyl Alcohol

Water

Glycerin

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Butylene Glycol

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Hydrolyzed Collagen

Ceramide NP

Diisostearyl Malate, Petrolatum, Triethylhexanoin, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Microcrystalline Wax, Parfum, Tocopheryl Acetate, Benzyl Alcohol, Water, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Butylene Glycol, Hydrogenated Lecithin, 1,2-Hexanediol, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Ceramide NP, Phenoxyethanol

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.

It is a:

Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin

Emollient, helping to soften skin

Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas

Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives

Diisostearyl Malate is an emollient and most often used in lip products. It comes from isostearyl alcohol, a fatty acid, and malic acid, an AHA.

As an emollient, Diisostearyl Malate helps create a thin film on your skin to trap moisture in. This helps keep your skin soft and smooth.

Parfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.

Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.

For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.

The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.

For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.

One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.

Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.

Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.

The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.

Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.

It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.

One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.

Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.

Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.

The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.

Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.

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